|'85 Grand Wagoneer:
FSJ Repairs & Upgrades
- Engine Mounts
- Oil Pan Removal
- Power Steering Pump & Belts
- Body Mounts
- Vapor Recovery System
- Bowl Vent Solenoid
- Wiring Diagrams for Start & Ignition, Charging, Forward Lighting
General SJ Web Links
- Ignition Wires
- Forward Lighting (headlights)
'67 Plymouth Barracuda pages
Wood grain removed and dents installed by previous owner.
March 2001, Phila. Pa
Things to be done: Too long to list.
Things fixed: Also a long list.
|Left: Bracket to engine block.
Center: Replacement Insulator designed so the front and back metal plates interlock. Unfortunately the studs are coarse thread.
Right: OEM Insulator - plate seperated from rubber-studs are fine thread.
Gasket and seals interlock. Install the side seals to the engine
block with High Tack, Gaskacinch, or similar adhesive. Yep, they
will hang there. (See right photo directly above the differential and the
steering link clamp). Then, install the front and back seals.
Oil pan comes in and out by turning it 90 degrees as shown. The wheels must be hanging free (see jack stands supporting frame), and the dust shield for the automatic transmission must be removed.
Things you will need:
* To seperate the resevoir from the pump you need a strong 18mm deep socket for the mounting studs and a 1" socket for the inlet fitting. (I broke my 18mm Craftsman deep socket at this stage, and took the unit back to the store to have them do the swap in their shop). Therefore an alternative here is to have another means to get back to the parts store. Afterwords I found several other deep sockets from the same set with hairline defects.
* To remove the pulley, you must have the pulley puller. It looks like a socket that wraps around the nose of pulley. Some stores will rent you one, those with shops will remove the pulley for you (if you have a way to get back to the store). If you do repair work, its a nice tool own, but not everyone stocks one to sell you. You do not need a pulley installer. A right size bolt, washer and nut will work. Cardone included this with their replacement pump.
* To remove the pump from from its bracketry you will need an assortment of metric and American wrenches, including 1/2" open, 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4", 15mm. The 11/16 and the 3/4" are used on the power steering hose fittings from Gates. However, the one I removed from my Wag was of a different brand, and seemed to have metric fittings. I used a 14" Cresent adjustable wrench to get it off the steering gear.
* Finally, a nice touch is a couple of plastic plugs to put on the inlet and outlet of the resevoir after the hoses are off.
Parts: These are the ones I used.
Rebuilt Replacement Pump: A-1 Cardone 20860, quality seemed good.
Power Steering Supply Hose: (Gates) Edelman 71144, quality excellent.
Power Steering Return Hose, 3/8" 3' length & hose clamps: Do not cheap out and use fuel line hose.
I had to go to another store to get this(Autozone in South Philly if you must know). But, this job is a PIA, so why take the chance of having to return to it in 6 months or a year. Fuel line is designed for relatively cool gas or gas/alcohol to run inside it, not relatively hot hydraulic fluid. Hose for transmission coolers would probably work fine as it must meet similar conditions, but even higher pressure.
Pump Removal Nuts and Bolts:
1. It is easier to access stuff if the Air Pump diverter valve is removed (1/2" and 15mm?).
2. Loosen the Air Pump (belt) adjusting bolt. (9/16")
3. Loosen the Power Steering Pump Adjusting nuts (15mm) and unless you make a special open or flare wrench to access the power steering hose, back them off all the way, but leave on for now.
4. Remove PS belt and then air pump belt. Push air pump down and out of the way. If it doesn't want to move, gently pry it and/or loosen pivot bolt (1/2") partly hidden under its pulley. (Access is better from below.)
5. In theory, removing the hoses first at the steering gear would be the better way to go. Drain as much fluid as you can. You could also pump as much fluid out of the resevoir as possible using a vacuum pump.
6. The fun job here is removing the hoses. If the return
hose has a worm drive clamp, loosen with a a screw driver. If it
has the crimp style, stick a small flathead screw driver or needlenose
pliers in the crimp and undo it. Regardless of step 5, it doesn't
hurt to put a catch basin underneath. To get supply
hose off, remove the bracket bolts holding the air pump, and
back off the nut holding it to the water pump. Get the air pump out of the way, and access the supply line fitting with an open end wrench (11/16 if its the Gates/Edleman hose) from where the air pump was. Only room for 1/4 turn at a time here.
7. Now remove the nuts and bolts that helped stablilize the pump during hose removal.
1. Put the pulley on last to make it easier to assemble everything.
2. Install hoses on steering gear first.
3. To install the Supply hose, first snug the adjusting nuts just more than finger tight to hold the pump. That frees both hands to get the fitting started. Once it is correctly threaded, turn in by hand or very light wrenching with open end wrench. Then loosen adjusting nuts so the pump can be moved forward as far as it will go (hose line will hit bracket) and tighten by sliding wrench in front of bracket as in 6 above.
4. Bolt Up power steering pump and air pump leaving adjusters finger tight. Attach return hose. Install pulley, and while installing check to insure you do not press it on too far. It shouldn't, but if it does, the pulleys may hit the bracket and not line up right with the airpump, crank and water pump pulley.
5. Tighten everything to spec. Shop manual sez 35 ft. lbs. for the bracket and adjusting bolts. Don't forget the diverter valve stuff. Fill resevoir with power steering fluid. Resevoir cap on mine said to use Dextron ATF, but the shop manual says DO NOT use transmission fluid. I went with the shop manual. Then I found obvious differences in the power steering fluid sold by different brands.
Go here for my comparison TESTS
OF IGNITION WIRES
To visually aim headlamps made to US specs (SAE), follow the
procedure from the Jeep manuals.
For headlights made to European standards, follow the procedure outlined by Dan Stern.
More information about lighting upgrades on the Barracuda/Wagoneer lighting page.
Another change was the replacement of the factory Marchal 750 foglamps with Cibie Tango 40s. The 40s use an H2 bulb which produces 50% more light than the H3 bulb in the Marchals, but draws the same 55 Watts. I still have one Marchal that is in fair condition with only one crackline in the lens. If you want it, e-mail me. Marchal was bought by Cibie and the 750 is no longer made. One reason I choose the 40 is that most of the current Cibie line is larger, and will stick out to the edge of the bumper guard. This is very bad in a city that lives by the "park by feel" method of parallel parking! Unfortunately, someone got one of the Tango 40 lenses already in the first year or so. :( Also, I found that Scot Harvey and other rallyist were right. Once you have H4 headlights, the foglights are not much additional help in fog. Been doing fine without them now for over ten years. Maybe, one day..
One more comparison of the fog lamps is worth mentioning. The Marchal 750 body is a cast construction and is thoroughly sealed against water. The Cibie Tango 40 is steel, and does not have water seals. I greased the housing to minimize water entry, but would question if this is a good choice of lamps if you plan lots of stream crossings.
Web sources of Lighting Information:
Daniel Stern Lighting - Great source of factual information on lighting including bulb information. Site incomplete, especially on the product side. He will sell to you, but its a side business to his consulting work.
Aardvark Intl. - A little slow to load, but has the illustrations of the light patterns and ranges for all of the Cibie line of auxilery lights.
Wayteckwire - A good source of quality relays, wire, sockets, etc.
If you take advice, or copy something I have done, you are on your own. I'm just trying to be helpful, but ou need to make your own decisions, and know about or discover the risks before barging ahead on any endevour.
The information here is provided to be shared. If you take something I have written, or a picture I have taken or drawn for credit or profit, you are a thief. Plain and simple. If you wish to quote something, you are free to do so. All I ask for is proper credit. If you wish to quote or copy more than a couple of lines, then you must get my permission. e-mail
rev. March 2017